La Cucina Eoliana e Siciliana: Milazzo

LA CUCINA EOLIANA E SICILIANA

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The castle on the plateau above the city is an amalgam of many architectural styles and influences. Built on the site of the city’s ancient acropolis, the Saracens built part of the present structure during their two hundred years of occupation in Sicily. The fortress truly began life as such after the Norman invasion, after which it saw vast expansion under the rule of Frederick II in 1239, and again later, under Charles V. After the brief Angevin rule of the island ended with the uprising in 1282 known as the Sicilian Vespers in Palermo. Milazzo fell to the Spanish Aragonese, who remained in power for next 300 years. The Aragonese built the Duomo Antico, as well as adding baroque enhancements and battlements in the 16th Century.

In the early 19th Century, the citadel became a base for British soldiers during the Napoleonic Wars, fifty years before Garibaldi's decisive victoy in Milazzo. In the last century, part of the castle was utilized as a prison and during WWII, the Mussolini regime confined anti-fascists there, as they had done in the castle on Lipari.

Although the structure was in serious disrepair as little as 20 years ago, it has undergone extensive restoration and now includes a museum dedicated to its history and the grounds are open to the public.

My cousins Franco and Cornelia with their grandchildren Leonardo and Chiara. Cornelia is a marvelous and prolific cook and she, along with her daughter Bice have prepared many memorable milazzese dishes for me.

Milazzo, my father's hometown, a place that is dear to my hear. My cousins always make my stay there a pleasure, which usually makes it all the more difficult for me to leave, especially when my cousin Cornelia tempts me with her pasta con seppie in nera (pasta with cuttlefish stewed in its own ink).

My cousins Maria and Claudio relaxing at the beach.

Milazzo, named Mylae by the ancient Greeks, who settled there around 700 BC. The city's interesting history dates from Sicily’s Ausonian period of the late Bronze Age and much of the town's early history parallels that of the Eolian Islands. In 260 AD, Milazzo saw the Roman Fleet defeat the Carthaginians off its shores in one of the great sea battles of the First Punic War. Sicily has experienced successive dominance by Byzantine, Arab, Norman, French and Spanish rule, and each of them has left some trace of their influence on the cultural landscape of the city. In the nineteenth century, the city even played an important role in the Risorgimento, or the unification of Italy.

In May of 1860, patriot and soldier Giuseppe Garibaldi arrived in Sicily to lead his volunteer army of a thousand in an attack against the ruling Bourbons, the rulers of By July of that same year, they reached Milazzo and won a strategic victory by routing out the Bourbons, who then retreated east to Messina and final defeat at Naples. While garrisoned in Milazzo, Garibaldi planned their next move at his headquarters in the Palazzo Marchese Proto, next to Chiesa del Carmine, and the regiment occupied the Castello.

Chiesa del Carmine, where my father attended school

If you visit Milazzo be sure to dine at the city's gastronomic treasure, Chef Filippo Calderone's La Vecchia Cucina, a splendid seafood restaurant alocated at Via Nino Ryolo 17, near the Lungomare Garibaldi.

Arguably the friendliest caff? in town is Bar CD, where you can enjoy espresso, cappucino, aperitivi, digestivi, gelato, panini and a variety of Sicilian pastries. The caff? is located in the heart of town on Piazza Caio Duilio.

Should you need a car drive to explore the Sicilian countryside or take to the islands, then call my cousin Enzo at Central Autonoleggi

Cumbo Borgia, 60
090.9282472
email

With my parents and cousins, Milazzo, 1983.

Calamari alla milazzese

milazzo style squid

ingredients:

2    pounds medium-sized squid
1    pound ripe tomatoes
4    anchovy filets packed in oil
4    cloves garlic
1    teaspoon crushed red chili
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup parsley
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

Begin cleaning the squid by pulling the tentacles and attached head away from the body. Remove the mouth from the head, hidden in the center of the base of the tentacles. Cut away the head just above the tentacles and below the eyes. Discard the mouth and head. Next, hold the body of the squid under cold running water, peel the outer skin, then squeeze out the insides and remove the thin cartilage by pulling gently from its tip. Thoroughly rinse the inside of the hood. Cook the squid whole or, if preferred, cut squid into large square pieces, leaving the tentacles in one piece.

Blanche the tomatoes in boiling water and peel them. Slice the tomatoes in half, then squeeze out the seeds and coarsely chop. Finely chop the parsley. Slice the garlic cloves in half.

Heat the olive oil along with the garlic in a large saut? pan over moderate flame, allow the garlic to lightly toast around the edges then add the cut up or whole squid and tentacles. Cook the squid for a several minutes until lightly golden. Stir in the chili and parsley, then add the white wine and simmer until the wine has almost evaporated.

Reduce the heat to low, add the anchovies and crush them in the pan, then add the tomatoes. Cover and simmer for about 20 minutes, stir occasionally and add a few tablespoons of water to prevent the sauce from becoming dry.

Serve as a main course, tossing the extra sauce with spaghetti.

Quartiere Vaccarella

MILAZZO

Milazzo Hoteliers Association

Milazzonline
information, history, culture, tourism

Commune di Milazzo

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