La Cucina Eoliana e Siciliana: Gesso

GESS0

Concetta Pagano Mavilia, my grandmother's cousin (1983)

My mother (center) with Concetta, her husband Giuseppe Mavilia, daughter Rosetta and granddaughter Giovanna.

Gesso is a small town situated in the hills of Messina Province. It derives its name from the mineral, calcium sulfate, or gypsum, a resource that once provided economic security for the town. One of the first Norman battles against the Saracens occurred nearby, and to celebrate their victory, the Normans erected a church and monastery dedicated to San Gregorio Magno, Saint Gregory the Great. The old railway station that now lies defunct near the gypsum quarry, is on the site of the former monastery.

The town also saw battles during the end of the Bourbon era, and in the last century, the Italian resistance and inhabitants of Gesso shielded American soldiers from German forces during WWII.

LA CUCINA EOLIANA E SICILIANA

the food of the eolian islands and sicily

GESSO

The home of my maternal grandmother's cousins family on via Belvedere, which sits near the top of the narrow main road. The rear terrace of the property overlooks a spledid view of the mountains and sea, as seen in the photo below.

Gesso is the proud home of a small museum dedicated to popular Sicilian musical instruments, Museo Cultura e Musica Popolare dei Peloritani. I have yet to visit the museum, but look forward to seeing the exhibit on my next trip.

Gesù Cristo, la Madonna e le Aninme Purganti, Chiesa Madre di San Antonio Abate, Gesso.

The painter Onofrio Gabrieli (1619-1706), a native of Gesso, returned there to pass his remaining years. Gabrieli's paintings are on view in churches and museums throughout Sicily and Italy. In 1983, an extensive exhibition of his work was on display in Gesso that I was fortunate enough to see, thanks to my cousins.

Concetta Pagano Mavilia, my grandmother's cousin (1983)

My cousins, Franco, Annamaria, Giovanna, Antonio and Domenica.

Rosetta and Ciccino

Sfincione alla nonna

grandmother's sicilian pizza

ingredients:

for the dough:

3     cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1     tablespoon salt
1     package dry yeast (2 ¼ teaspoons)
1     teaspoon sugar
1     cup warm water (filtered or spring water)

for the topping:

2     tablespoons olive oil
4     medium-sized onions
2     tablespoons dried oregano
6     anchovy filets (optional)
extra virgin olive oil for drizzling

Peel the onions and cut them into 1/4 inch slices. Place the onions in a sauté pan with 2 tablespoons of olive oil over moderate heat and cook for about 10 minutes until translucent and lightly golden, add the salt and then set aside. If using anchovies, omit the salt, finely chop the anchovies and stir them in with the onions after they have cooled.

Warm the water to 105°F then pour 1/2 cup into a medium-sized bowl, stir in the yeast and add the sugar. Let the yeast dissolve until it foams, about 15 minutes.

Put the flour in a large mixing bowl, make a well in the center and add the salt and 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the yeast and the rest of the water to the well and work the dough into a ball. Turn out the dough onto a flour-dusted work surface and slowly knead the dough for about 10 to 15 minutes until it is smooth and elastic, adding more flour if the dough seems too wet.

Dust the bowl with flour and place the dough in the bowl, dust the top of the dough with flour. Cover the bowl with a kitchen towel and place it in a warm spot and let the dough rise for 1½ hours or until it has doubled in size.

Preheat the oven to 375° F.

Once the dough has finished rising, brush a 12 X 18-inch baking sheet with olive oil. Gently punch down the dough and place it in the pan. Using your fingers, shape the dough to line the pan and fit it to the edges of the pan. Cover the pan with a kitchen towel and allow the dough to rise for at least 30 minutes.

Spread the cooked onions over the top of the dough and gently press them into the surface, then sprinkle with oregano.

Bake for 20 to 30 minutes or until the bottom of the crust turns golden brown.

Cut into square slices with a knife or pizza cutter and serve hot or room temperture.

Pagnottelle alla Rosetta

rosetta's pagnottelle

ingredienti:

300    gr. di farina
300    gr. di patate (già lessate e schiacciate)
25      gr. di burro
3-4     cucchiai di latte
10      gr. di lievito di birra
1        pizzico di sale
2        uova
cubetti di mozzarella
cubetti di prosciutto (o mortadella)

Dopo aver sciolto il burro ed il lievito nel latte, si impasta il tutto con la farina e le patate, aggiungendo il sale e le 2 uova.

Ottenuta una pasta molto morbida, si formano sul palmo della mano delle palline e si farciscono con cubetti di mozzarella e prosciutto.

Si lasciano lievitare e poi si friggono in abbondante olio.

Con queste dosi si ottengono circa 20 pagnottelle.

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